Everything is a bargain

My time in country does not necessarily correlate positively with my understanding of Mauritania. I have, however, made at least one revelation this month: everything is a bargain. I don't mean goods are sold on the cheap. I mean every aspect of daily life requires negotiation.

For a kilo of carrots, we lowball the tents at the vegetable market. For a claw hammer, we cut the merchant's proposed price in half. Buying a roll of tape is cause for suspicion (maa-hu waa'ir? - this isn't overpriced?) and a visit to the local tailor can be a harrowing hour-long ordeal. Volunteers even haggle for time: we schedule meetings days in advance to account for cancellations and postponements. If a week-long project needs to be done by June, we instinctively begin in April. Occasionally, this provides adequate "oops" time.

I liken it to my morning routine. I know I will slap the snooze out of my alarm at least five times, so I set my buzzer an hour early. You think it ridiculous, I find it Mauritania-typical. Despite the morning sun, the rooster crows, the morning prayer calls, my day begins with the "five more minutes" mentality and continues throughout a vigorously bargained day.