Monday, February 26, 2007

Where’s Waldo Khadijetou?

I have received several schedule requests, i.e. what do you do during the day and when can I call you? Ask, and ye shall (eventually) receive. Below, you will find a (more or less stable) weekly schedule and a peek into ma vie quotidienne.

Please note, I am 4 hours LATER than U.S. EST. Which means if you are drinking your morning coffee, I am well into a Mauritanian afternoon. Likewise, if you call me after work, it’s nearly midnight here. This is of course ok, since I’m an attention whore and will always accept a long distance hug from the States.


Typical week in Atar:

Note the percentages of available. As in, if you call me at 1pm EST M-F (0%), I am not going to pick up. However, if you call at the same time Sat or Sun (80%), I’m there.




Typical weekday in Atar:


07:30amcurse alarm, hit snooze
07:39curse and inadvertently disable alarm
09:40curse myself, frantically dress, run to school
10:00spend recess begging teachers to environmentally integrate lessons

drink tea

explain for the nth time: I am neither shebiba (beautiful) nor married

drink tea, drink zrig (milk drink)

drink tea

discuss upcoming projects (i.e. why they need cash)
11:00run across town dodging requests*

drop by the City School Administration office, schmooze
12 noonfight 56k modem, attempt to check email

check in with sitemates, giggle a bit
01:30pmeat chebugen (fish and rice) at Hawa’s restaurant
02:15forget that classes at the college just let out

try to dodge hordes of twittering girls, fail, agree to dine with their families
03:00visit second school, discuss upcoming projects (i.e. why they need cash)
04:00visit third school, discuss … (you get the point)
04:40give thanks that I only work at three schools

run across town dodging requests*
05:00teach English class
06:00try to end English class

continue answering eager students’ questions
06:10try to end English class
06:13lock door, walk across town, while answering English students questions
06:35arrive at French Alliance for class, breathless and covered in chalk

giggle with sitemate, look up scandalous phrases, learn some français
07:40begin counting down minutes till dinner, fight hunger pangs
08:00catch up with French Alliance profs after class, fight hunger pangs
08:10stop by Senegalese boutique to chat (mix of French, English, Arabic, Wolof)
08:15eat beans or cous cous at Hawa’s restaurant
01:30amwonder why I’m still watching Family Guy with the PCVs
02:00get a male PCV to walk me 4+ (dark and slightly ominous) blocks home
02:15late night shower

climb into sand covered bed

fall asleep trying to listen to books on tape



Typical Saturday in Atar:


07:30curse alarm, hit snooze
07:39curse alarm, hit snooze
07:48curse alarm, hit snooze
07:57curse alarm, hit snooze
08:06curse myself, frantically dress, run to school
08:30Ecoclub with kids from Ecole 6
10:00run across town dodging requests*
10:30Ecoclub with kids from Ecole 8
12 noonrun across town, fight hunger pangs
01:00pmeat chebugen (fish and rice) at Hawa’s restaurant
01:30prepare English lesson for tomorrow
02:15visit Nouha

consume gossip, giggles, tea and zrig
04:00activities at the Girls’ Mentoring Center
06:00work (maybe) and laugh (definitely) at bureau with sitemates
06:40visit a Mauritanian family for a bland dinner, undeserved gifts, and tea x3

fight aural ADHD; listen to TV, radio, and conversation simultaneously

tactfully avoid discussions of politics

reluctantly engage in discussions of marital status, children, biological clocks

postpone wife covering my hands and feet with henna (“maybe next time”)
midnightwonder where the time went

stumble home feeling gorged, exhausted but strangely integrated

late night shower, pass out listening to shiny new iPod


* Running across town occurs more frequently than noted above, usually due the fact that I am perpetually overbooked and thus late. Common impediments to my (un)timely arrival include the following gems:

  • “Nouakchott?!?!!” [i.e. I drive a taxi, would you like a ride to the capital?]
  • “I have this pain in my [eye, lung, head, testicle]...”
  • “Are you married?”
  • “Are you looking for a man?”
  • “What do you do at night? Aren’t you lonely?”
  • “Why don’t you shake men’s hands?”
  • “Why don’t you wear a veil?”
  • “Madame-HA!?!?!!” [i.e. White people are so interesting, would you wave at me?]
  • “Monsieur, monsieur!!!” [i.e. I don’t know gender agreement, wave at me anyway?]
  • “Pretty [skirt, earrings, glasses, pen, bag]. Can I have it?”
  • “You are beautiful. I just want to be your friend. You are so beautiful.”
  • “Give me [money, medicine, your phone number, that bag of garbage].”

Thursday, February 22, 2007

an ode to WAIST

WAIST, your homonym is
waste, more in that diminished-faculties-gin-and-tonic
way than in that
waste-of-time way.
Whatever allowed you to surpass New Year’s in St. Louis
will likely remain mysterious.
Was it the threatening Senegalese undertow, unfulfilled
winter expectations, or simply the
weather? Regardless,
we volunteers salute you. You, the perfect wedding of
weaved tresses, mohawks and wenches,
wanton wardrobes, pantsless innings, first place trophies, bus
wheels buried in sand dunes, swilling and
whiskey and February and revelry. Only a weekend, but
well worth 100,000 cfa and extinguished brain cells. Rest assured,
we will wait unwearyingly until WAIST 2008
where we will unleash Mauritania’s wrath like locusts
wiping out softball crops.